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22 mars 2023

Ce mois ci, je sens la paresse me gagner. Je n’ai pas vraiment le courage d’écrire une histoire et de penser à des bons mots un peu vaseux. Il faut dire que nous avons mis quatre jours pour arriver au sommet (5.109 mètres quand même) et trois pour redescendre.

Aussi je vous envoie l’histoire de mon camarade Peter Martell, journaliste à l’AFP, s’il vous plait. Cela vous changera d’un travail d’amateur !

Ce mois ci, je sens la paresse me gagner. Je n'ai pas vraiment le courage d'écrire une histoire et de penser à des bons mots un peu vaseux. Il faut dire que nous avons mis quatre jours pour arriver au sommet (5.109 mètres quand même) et trois pour redescendre.
Aussi je vous envoie l'histoire de mon camarade Peter Martell, journaliste à l'AFP, s'il vous plait. Cela vous changera d'un travail d'amateur !
Ouganda1

A l’inverse du pastis où le glaçon doit tomber dans le verre, le but du jeu est d’éviter de tomber dans le glaçon. Plus difficile !

De Peter MARTELL

« Montagnes du Rwenzori — Sous une neige tourbillonnante, John Medenge perce du bout d'une lance une fine couche de neige recouvrant une crevasse, guidant un groupe de grimpeurs vers le sommet abrupte du Mont Stanley.

"Nous sommes parmi les derniers à grimper sur la glace, ça va tellement vite", dit-il après avoir escaladé la dangereuse crête de cette montagne de la chaîne du Rwenzori, à cheval entre l'Ouganda et la République démocratique du Congo (RDC).

Avec ses 5.109 m, le Mont Stanley est la troisième plus haute montagne d'Afrique, derrière le mont Kenya et le mythique Kilimandjaro tanzanien.

Mais, comme pour le mont Kenya et le Kilimandjaro, les experts mettent aujourd'hui en garde contre la fonte des neiges qui le frappe, à une vitesse alarmante. Selon eux, dans deux décennies, les pics africains, où neige et glace déjà se raréfient, ne seront plus que rocs.

- La source du Nil blanc -

"Tous les ans, la glace diminue", dit encore John Medenge. Ce guide aujourd'hui âgé de 54 ans grimpe le Mont Stanley depuis l'adolescence.

L'astronome et géographe grec Ptolémée est le premier à avoir, dès le IIe siècle, écrit sur le Rwenzori. Il avait alors identifié ces "Montagnes de la lune" comme la source du majestueux Nil blanc.

Si des siècles durant, chaque génération a pu admirer le manteau de neige qui les recouvrait, la fonte est aujourd'hui bien réelle, et a des conséquences plus graves que la seule banalisation du spectacle.

"La fonte des glaciers est un autre avertissement, un +canari dans la mine+, de l'incapacité de l'humanité à limiter les dégâts du changement climatique", estime Luc Hardy de Pax Arctica, une organisation de sensibilisation au changement climatique qui a mené une expédition dans le massif en janvier.

"La fonte de ce glacier africain unique constitue une importante menace pour les communautés locales, puisqu'elle entraîne une évidente réduction des eaux renouvelables", poursuit l'explorateur franco-américain, par ailleurs vice-président de l'ONG écologiste Green Cross (Croix-Verte).

Le phénomène nuit déjà à l'agriculture et à la production hydroélectrique, pointe Richard Atugonza, du centre des ressources de la montagne à l'université ougandaise de Makerere, dans la capitale Kampala. "Cela peut devenir un gros problème à l'avenir pour la région, les rivières changent déjà".

Situé à quelques km seulement de l'équateur, le Rwenzori, souvent perdu dans la brume, s'étend sur environ un km2 et comprend quelques autres glaciers, qui pour la plupart ne sont plus aussi recouverts que d'une minuscule calotte de glace.

L'explorateur américano-britannique Henry Morton Stanley fut lui le premier Occidental à découvrir ces glaciers en 1889. A l'époque, la glace recouvrait le sommet du mont qui porte désormais son nom sur sept km2. Aujourd'hui, il n'en reste plus qu'un petit km2.

- Les dieux à la rescousse -

Dans le but de préserver les neiges, le roi des Bakonzo, la tribu qui peuple la région, envoie régulièrement des chefs locaux sacrifier des poulets et des chèvres aux pieds des montagnes du Rwenzori pour apaiser les dieux qui vivent sur les crêtes.

"Le réchauffement climatique n'est pas provoqué par les gens ici, mais il nous fait du mal", dénonce Baluku Stanley, président d'une des principales compagnies de trekking locales. "Bien sûr, quand il n'y aura plus de neige, cela affectera le tourisme, même si les randonnées dans la vallée sont incroyables".

Ouganda2

Uniquement aux Rwenzoris

Ces vallées abritent en effet une végétation digne de contes de fées, faite d'arbres tarabiscotés enveloppés dans des manteaux de lichen vert fluorescent mais aussi de lobélies et de bruyères hautes de cinq mètres. Une végétation qui permet aux éléphants, léopards et autres chimpanzés de se cacher tandis que plus haut en altitude, virevoltent des oiseaux bariolés.

Pour l'heure cependant, les grimpeurs cherchent encore à se frayer des chemins jusqu'aux pics. L'exercice est de plus en plus périlleux, car la fonte des neiges a rendu impraticables certaines pistes, où des échelles rouillées pendent désormais dangereusement dans les airs.

"Les Rwenzoris sont parmi les glaciers les plus excitants que j'ai grimpés, qui rivalisent avec les pics d'Europe et d'Amérique latine", estime cependant encore Paul Drawbridge, un Britannique de 34 ans parti pendant huit jours à l'assaut du Mont Stanley. "C'est tellement dommage de penser que les enfants que j'aurai peut-être à l'avenir ne verront jamais ces pics enneigés". 

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